A receiver is that big, heavy thing that you plug your speakers and
other components into (like a DVD player, TV, CD player, Xbox,
PlayStation, iPod, and etc.). Its the "brain" of the show, really. The
idea of connecting all your components to a receiver is the concept of
audio/video switching, allowing you to switch to different video sources
(like TV, DVD, camcorder) on your TV
and thus changing the audio source accordingly - all without touching anything but the receiver.
Of
course, the main purpose behind audio/video switching with a receiver
is to drive audio to external speakers, like surround sound or stereo
speakers.
Most receivers have a plethora of inputs; up to 8
speakers and a subwoofer (more commonly, 5.1, or five speakers and a
subwoofer), several video inputs, and even HDMI inputs. You could plug
your Xbox, Plasma, and DVD player into the receiver and use one remote
to switch between all the different video sources (games, TV, DVD video)
and have your speakers pump out surround-sound. Let's start with inputs
and outputs. If you don't understand something, read through the entire
How-To as most of it will be explained in detail.
Keep in mind
that a receiver is the hub of your entire home theatre, so this How-To
will actually guide you through the basics of connecting your complete
home theater.
So what the heck is all this 'stuff' on the back of your receiver?
I'm
going to go over just about anything that you would find on the back of
your receiver. The one I'm basing this guide off of is a Harman Kardon
AVR-247 I'm going to start from the top left of the unit and work my way
to the right, then I'll start at the left of the next row and so on.
The
first three inputs are for antennas. An FM antenna cable would slide on
to the first jack while two speaker wires would plug into the remaining
slots for AM. Of course, you don't have to plug your antennas in, but
if you'd like AM/FM reception through your speakers, you'll want to go
ahead and do that. These are standard connections, so if you lose one of
your antennas, just go buy another for a few bucks.
You've
probably heard of composite video. Its a very basic video connection
used by most any component (TV, DVD, VCR especially). Its common and its
cheap. As such, its very low quality.
Composite uses an RCA cable for video (yellow) and two more RCA
cables for audio (red and white, stereo). The problem is that a
composite video cable combines luminance and chrominance in the same
cable, reducing the quality of the picture. You lose a lot of sharpness,
and the color begins to degrade from the original source. Its useful
when you need the extra input or the device you're connecting
only has composite video. Otherwise, use something else, like component video. Sounds similar; very different.
S-Video
is next in line after composite. It uses a different type of connector
(five pins in a circle) and gives you marginally better video quality.
It is also a video-only cable, so you'll need to plug in audio
separately. In this case, you'll probably use a pair of red and white
RCA cables for your audio inputs.
Next up: a ton of composite
audio inputs. These inputs use left channel and right channel RCA
cables, typically red and white. They look just like the yellow
composite video cable, and you could even use them for video and the
yellow for audio, but let's keep the color scheme how it is ;) Composite
audio is the bottom-of-the-barrel in audio. Its perfectly fine for most
use, but if you're looking for high quality surround sound, you don't
want composite. Game systems, like the Wii or Xbox, and very basic DVD
players are a perfect match for composite audio.
The same goes to
VCRs, CD players, and anything that only has a composite audio output.
Plus, if you don't have surround sound, or your receiver is only two
channels (2.1, stereo sound), you won't be able to use anything but
composite audio. Note that there is a composite audio input under each
composite video input so that it is easy to match them up. Plug them in
the wrong inputs and you won't get sound when you're on that particular
video input.
Here we have one of the least-used features of a modern receiver: 6 (or 8) channel direct input. This is
only used for two purposes:
SACD or
DVD Audio.
SACD is an acronym for Super Audio CD. It is a proprietary audio
format developed by Sony for special CDs that are recorded in 5.1
surround sound. That means you need a CD or DVD/CD player that supports
SACDs, a receiver with SACD support (as in the picture), and of course
Super Audio CD's. DVD Audio is the same idea, different brand, different
media (its a DVD, not a CD!).
DVD Audio discs are special DVDs
that are recorded in 5.1 surround sound and can only be played by
devices with support for them. These CDs go all the way up to 7.1
surround sound, meaning you would need to have two front, two rear, two
side speakers and a subwoofer to enjoy full 7.1 surround sound. Most
receivers support up to 7.1 now but you won't find DVDs with that kind
of capability for movies. 5.1 surround is still the defacto standard, so
don't run out and buy more speakers any time soon.
You could skip
this next little item because it is unique to this brand of receiver
(Harman Kardon). The Bridge" is a proprietary connection they developed
for you to connect
an iPod. You need to buy a separate component that includes a
docking station and special cables to connect the iPod. It fully
integrates with the receiver, displaying
menus and songs on the front LCD screen of the receiver. This allows
you to easily pump your tunes through your speakers, whether it be
stereo sound or full surround sound.
Of course, the music on your
iPod is stereo sound, so the best you can get is simulated surround
sound or stereo surround; the same music playing in the front two
channels
is put through the rear and center channels. Some receivers do this more intelligently than others, but more on that later.
Here
we have our high-end sound inputs/outputs. Basically the same
performance wise, you have fiber optic connections (with the square
shape) and digital coaxial (just like an RCA cable).
Both of these are 100% digital, whereas composite is analog. The
only way you can get true surround sound from any source is by using one
of these connections (or the SACD/DVD Audio option)
Almost all
DVD players these days have either optical or digital coaxial outputs
(sometimes, both). Many high definition cable and satellite boxes also
come with these
connections so you can enjoy 5.1 surround sound on high definition
channels. Choosing between the two, there's really no different in audio
quality, so feel free to use
what you'd like (or what you're forced to).
I don't think I
need an image for the next plug. Its a pair of power inputs. One is for
powering the receiver, the other for whatever you'd like. This way, when
you turn
on the receiver, you give power to the other device (be it a DVD
player, CD player, cable box, whatever). I don't necessarily recommend
this unless it specifically suits
your needs. It is useful if you're running low on outlets, of course.
Something
else you'll never use: D-bus RC-5 input/output. This is used for
infrared remote controls to take over your home theater system.
Honestly, its not something any of us will ever use. Some of the real
high-end junkies might be using something for it, but I've never even
come across a device that uses this technology. Stick to the remote that
came with your unit, or buy a quality universal remote control. There's
no need for this option. An alternate use for this may be a bit more
common: if your receiver's front panel is blocked (like inside a
cabinet), you could get an infrared transmitter to latch on to the front
of it. This transmitter would hook up to another device somewhere in
your room that will accept signals from your remote control. The
receiving device then transmits the remote's commands to your receiver
(via the transmitter you've attached to the front over the regular
infrared transmitter).
Pre-outs , located right under the Remote
in/out. Pre-outs are used when you'd like to add an amplifier to your
system to boost the power (and hence volume/audio quality). Average
users will not use this for anything but the subwoofer preout.
You'll want to run a subwoofer cable from your subwoofer to the
subwoofer pre-out to provide it with
the right frequencies. This is the proper way to connect your
subwoofer to your surround sound system. The other inputs won't be used
unless you plan on adding
an amplifier. This is highly unnecessary for home use. You might add
an amp if you're trying to fill a room the size of a small house with
enough sound, but you're not, right?
Here we finally get to the meat of the system: the speaker inputs! Harman Kardon receivers use
bind posts for connecting speakers, as seen in the picture. They
work by being loosened up as your turn them counter-clockwise, then
you sneak the speaker wire in underneath the caps and tighten them back
up by turning clockwise. This'll
give your speaker wire a nice tug fit that probably won't loosen up
on itself over time. Other brands may use other types of connectors, but
bind posts are very common.
You might have been able to tell this is a 7.1 channel receiver because of the speaker inputs.
You've got room for 2 front left and right speakers, 2 rear left and right speakers,
a center channel, and two left and right "surround" channels which
are placed somewhere in between your front and rear speakers ("side
surround", or 7.1). If you have enough
speakers, you can go ahead and plug in those extra 2 side ones, but
they won't play any sound at all on a 5.1 DVD. You would need a DVD that
supports 7.1
surround sound, and at this time, there just isn't a market for it.
CDs will gladly blast stereo surround through all 7 speakers, though, so
for some larger rooms, that's an
advantage.
Our final set of connectors for this receiver:
component video . The best video you can get next to composite or
s-video. You'll notice its a set of three cables (all for video),
usually Red, Green and Blue. Don't think that's what the cable does,
though - it separates the video signal by luminance and two separate
color channels. In the past, component
did it in fact represent R, G, B (splitting the primary colors in
transmit and recombining them at the destination device), but that is
not used in current component video
connections. Component video can carry high definition signals, all
the way up to 1080p, so it is the most cost effective and readily
available high definition input.
Not seen on this receiver are DVI and HDMI, the two all-digital video connections.
HDMI is the newest, fastest, sharpest video
and
audio connection available today. Its the only cable that can carry
audio and video in one - not to mention, in high definition.
HDMI must be supported by the source and the display you're
connecting it to to use all of its features. Not all DVD players, cable
boxes, or receivers support both
audio and video in HDMI. Its becoming more and more of a standard
now to support both. The advantage is clear: less cable clutter, higher
quality audio and video. You can get up
to 1080p high definition video and 7.1 surround sound through an
HDMI cable. Newer cable and satellite boxes, DVD players, high
definition DVD players, and more expensive receivers
support the full capability of HDMI. Its the best you can get as all-digital goes.
The
last connection for this article is DVI. DVI is also all digital like
HDMI, but it cannot process audio signals. HDMI may provide a
technically superior image,
but I don't think anyone could tell the difference. DVI supports
high definition video all the way up to 1080p, just like HDMI. Its being
used less frequently now,
but if you've bought a new computer or video card for your PC
recently, it probably has a DVI (or two) port on it. Most computer
monitors use DVI now and video cards
have followed suit. HDMI is edging its way into the PC market, but its dominance is seen in the home theater arena.
Now that you've familiarized yourself with common connections, let's plug it all together.
This
part of the receiver How-To is going to guide you through hooking a 5.1
surround sound system(5 speakers and a subwoofer) with a
high-definition TV, a high-definition cable or satellite box, a DVD
player, and a 5.1 receiver.
Your TV & Components
Where
you put your TV is dependent on how large it is, how large your room
is, and where you will be sitting. If its 50 inches, don't sit more than
10-15 feet away; but no less, either.
A 60" set is perfect for 12-20 feet. If you have a 32 inch set, try
to sit no farther than 8-12 feet away. Your receiver, DVD player, cable
box, and other components should obviously be close together, but don't
place them physically on top of each other. They all get hot, especially
your receiver. If you have no other choice, slide a thin piece of
plywood between the components to help dispense the heat.
Lay Out of Speakers
The
first step is to lay out your setup. Different rooms call for different
locations for your speakers and subwoofer. If your room is a typical
rectangle, go ahead and place your two front left and right speakers
somewhere flush with the television on that side of the room. Your left
speaker goes toward the left corner, right speaker toward the right
corner. Don't bother with speaker wire yet (unless your speakers come
with speaker wire attached already; in that case, just let them dangle
for now). Note that which speaker is left or right is solely dependent
on how you connect them to your receiver. Your speakers aren't actually
designated "left" or "right".
Depending on how you acquired your
speakers, your front speakers could be larger than your rear speakers.
That's how you know they're for the front. Otherwise, all your speakers
are the same shape and size, and you can use each for any purpose.
One
exception: the center channel. Usually, a center channel is much
shorter and wider than your other speakers. It should only be used for
the center channel. Sometimes, all 5 of your speakers could be the same,
usually on a very inexpensive setup. You can use any of these speakers
for any purpose.
Your center channel should always go either
directly on top or under your television set. However you have to do
this, get it done! It's not called the
center channel for
nothing, you know. Any movie will pump out almost 90% of the voices you
hear and a majority of the rest of the sounds through the center
channel. It is a vitally important component to your surround sound
setup.
Your subwoofer should always be on the floor. If it is
impossible to place it on the floor, get it as close to the floor as
possible. Placing it behind objections or in closets will diminish its
effects. In a perfect setup, the subwoofer would be on the floor close
to the TV (perhaps off to the left or right) in your line of sight.
Nothing should block the side of the subwoofer that air will come out of
(usually covered by a grill protecting the subwoofer speaker itself).
When
it comes to finding a good spot for your speakers, you might want to
mount them. You can usually buy compatible speaker mounts online or in
stores. You can also
use existing shelving, buy some shelving, or place them on tables or
other objects. No matter how you do it, try to keep the speakers as
close to ear level as possible. A speaker mounted at the ceiling
of your room isn't going to give you the optimal aural experience.
The
last thing to keep in mind about layout is speaker wire. You'll
probably need at least 100ft of speaker wire, but you'll often find
yourself using much more if you
try running wire through your ceiling, under carpeting, up through
the basement, or around objects to conceal it. Take measurements and buy
at least 10% more wire than
you think you need. You'll probably use it!
Cabling
You
need to know the different kind of speaker wire available to you before
setting up your home theatre. If you bought an HTIB (home theater in a
box), it probably came with 100ft of horribly cheap speaker wire. You
don't want that! Do yourself a favor: buy some high-quality, 14-gauge
speaker wire. Anything higher than 14-gauge is just to thin and will be
susceptible to interence, quality loss, and poor quality over longer
distances. Fourteen gauge is a good thickness and suitable for most home
theatres. Make sure its also not too thick - some speaker wire simply
will not fit in to the speaker wire jacks on some receivers.
Some
receivers use proprietary speaker inputs. Sony is one example. Many Sony
receivers have special connectors for speaker wire and will not accept a
standard speaker wire. You'll need to use either the Sony-provided
speaker wire, take the ends off of Sony speaker wire and put it on your
own, or buy some of these special connectors from Sony directly to place
on your speaker wire. My recommendation? Avoid any receivers with
non-standard speaker wire posts/jacks/connectors. Look for bind posts or
other jacks that allow you to slide in and clamp down on a typical
speaker wire.
Once you've got your speaker wire sorted out, you'll
have to do some cutting and stripping if you opted to purchase your
own. This is way easier than it sounds, so don't worry!
Measure
out each length one at a time, cutting the speaker wire with either
really great scissors or a sharp blade. Now you need to strip the ends
of the wire. Use either a stripping tool or plain old scissors. You can
place the scissors on the cable and gently apply some pressure as you
twist the scissors around the cable, carefully slicing into the plastic
coating. Eventually, it'll get weak enough that you can just slide it
off by tugging on it with your fingers. You need at least 1/4" of
exposed wire.
Now you can connect your speakers. Note on your
speaker wire the difference between the two ends. You'll need to use one
as your positive and one as your negative. Sometimes the coating is a
different color between the two or there is text on one and not on the
other. Keep track of this - whichever side you use for positive on your
speaker, use it for positive on your receiver. Crossing the two can
cause damage, either immediately or sometime in the future. It might
work this way but you don't want it to!
Connecting the speakers is
easy enough. Front left to front left on your receiver, center speaker
to center on your receiver, etc... Your rear speakers may be referred to
as "Surround" or "Rear Surround" instead of just "Rear", but keep in
mind, if you have a 7.1 or 8.1 channel receiver, "Surround" may indicate
side surround speakers, not rear speakers.
Subwoofers
Your
subwoofer is going to be a little more complicated. There are a few
different ways to do it and many variations of inputs/ouputs on the back
side of subwoofers. I'm going to go with the most standard and
efficient method first.
You will need a subwoofer cable for
connecting your sub. If you don't have one or don't want to buy one, you
can substitute it for a standard red or white RCA cable (or a pair,
since they are usually connected; just let the other cable dangle). It
will work, but its really not the best way to do it. You'll also need
whats called a Y adapter. On the back of your sub, there should be a
left/right input (red and white). You plug the Y adapter in to these
connections and then your subwoofer cable (or RCA cable) in the other
end of the Y (note: if you don't have a Y adapter, just choose the left
or right input to plug into).
Now, take the other end of your cable and plug it into your receiver's
subwoofer preout. Hopefully you have a powered sub, meaning it gets
plugged into an AC power outlet. All you need to do now is plug that in
and your subwoofer is good to.
If you don't have RCA jacks on your
subwoofer, or it only has speaker wire jacks (and its most likely not
powered), you'll need to connect it the old fashioned way. Your front
left and right speakers will plug into your subwoofer's ouput jacks
instead of your receiver. You'll then run speaker wire from the left and
right inputs on the subwoofer to your left and right speaker outputs on
your receiver. This way, the subwoofer is powered by the receiver and
will not work as well as a powered sub. You also take some power away
from your front speakers with this method. A good idea is to buy a new,
powered subwoofer with line in RCA jacks.
Connecting the Dots
You've
got the hard stuff out of the way. Now finish it up by connecting your
TV, DVD, and cable/satellite box. Always try using the best options
first. If your DVD
has HDMI and so does your receiver, use it. If your DVD only has
composite, s-video, and component, use component video cable. When it
comes to audio, you absolutely need
to use digital coaxial (jacks are usually orange) or fiber optic
(usually the jack is recessed into the unit and has a door on it; when
the door is open, a red light is visible). If you do not use either of
these two, you won't get true surround sound! When all else fails,
resort to composite (red and white) audio connectors.
Note: Look
closely at the connections on your receiver. Everything is labeled, like
the first set of red, green, and blue component video inputs might be
labeled "Comp 1". If you're using composite audio cablesfor your sound,
you'll need to plug them into the jacks that coordinate with "Comp 1".
This might not be clear by looking at the receiver, so refer to your
receiver's manual to figure out which video inputs use which audio
inputs. Most often, you'll be able to configure them from the receiver's
internal menu using the remote control.
On some receivers, all
the component video inputs, for example, are linked to a single
composite audio input (usually "DVD"), so if you connect more than one
of the component inputs, you will be competing for sound when more than
one device is active. This is why you'd want to configure the component
inputs to use different audio inputs.
Your manual is the only way
to figure out how to go about it. Composite video will usually match up
to composite audio inputs with naming conventions like Video 1 ->
Video 1, Video 2 -> Video 2, etc., but cables like component and DVI
may not. You should also configure digital audio inputs to match up with
the video inputs you're planning on using. For example, if you're using
a digital coaxial input (possibly "Digital 1"), and you use component
video, you'll want to match "Digital 1" with "Comp 1". Again, refer to
your users manual for how to do this.
